The Eaten Path: Little Beetle Bistro a decadent gem hidden in plain sight

Some brunch options so self-indulgent they should ask for emergency contact info

Certain businesses have such a desirable product or service that people will go great lengths to find them in whatever odd corner of the world they exist in.

Think of Anita’s Bakery in the southeast corner of an industrial complex on South Sumas Road, or Kent’s Ice Cream out on Yale Road near Little Mountain.

Little Beetle Bistro used to be this, serving up some of the best breakfasts and lunches in Chilliwack for years in its distinctive blue and white house with modest signage on the corner of Unsworth and South Sumas next to a lumber yard.

They could be located halfway up Mt. Cheam or on an island in the Fraser River and people would still visit.

But the bistro closed up its rural location in May 2024 and moved to a larger, brighter, inviting eatery in a non-distinct plaza in Sardis.

I am not one for hyperbole, and I insist on honesty and truth in journalism, even in a restaurant review. 

Having said that, I’ll take it as a challenge to come up with something negative to say. It is a tad expensive but even here not exorbitantly compared to what you would pay for much less at chain restaurants.

OK, let me thingk, here’s my biggest beef: My biggest criticism is the typos and poor wording on the menu. Does that even count as a restaurant criticism? That feels like critcizing the frames at the Louvre.  

The staff is friendly, attentive. The decor is inviting and comfortable. And combining delicious food with artistic plating is a rarity in a breakfast spot, arguably unnecesary for the morning crowd, but it’s a welcome bonus.

OK, the food

Shut the front door. Bestill my heart. 

I've been to Little Beetle twice with friends this year and I started with the most basic order: The “CHWK BREKKIE,” which is two eggs, thick-cut bacon, farmer’s sausage, hash browns, avocado sliced thinly, smoked salmon with organic sourdough toast, and garlic butter. Tons on the plate but not overwhelming, even for a relatively light eater.

The second time I went, I ordered something that might have been a mistake for my life expectancy but was a breakfast I still have dreams about.

I do not like sweets too much and I am not hugely into carbs, but if you are like me and you have ever had a “croffle,” that all goes out the window. This is a waffle made with croissant batter. It is so fluffy light and tasty, less carb-y and less sweet than most waffles, a perfect pallette to adorn with… anything, really.

Croffle time

If sweet is your thing, how about berries, banana, homemade crunchy tuile and a homemade crumble, maple butter and cold brew coffee ice-cream from Banter Ice Cream. 

More into savoury, is there anything better than fried chicken? There is a Fried Chicken Benny or the Chicken & Croffle, which both sound great. Why not combine them? If you love fried chicken, Hollandaise sauce, and have time for a nap, the Brunch Croffle is for you. This breakfast is so decadent it should come with a warning label or an emergency contact information form: Two fluffy croffles topped with a buttermilk fried chicken thigh, two poached eggs, creamy Hollandaise sauce, a chunk of local thick-cut bacon and seasonal fruit. 

There are almost too many options on the Little Beetle menu but the staff here seem able to deal with the vast number of combinations, a big room, and eager eaters.

Little Beetle Bistro is the kind of rare place that is so good that if the cat hadn't been out of the bag for a so long, I wouldn’t tell you about it so I could keep it as my own culinary secret. 

But you probably already know.

If you go on the weekend, get there early, prepare to wait. It’s worth it.

-30-

Want to support independent journalism?
Consider becoming a paid subscriber or make a one-time donation so I can continue this work.

Paul J. Henderson
pauljhenderson@gmail.com
facebook.com/PaulJHendersonJournalist
instagram.com/wordsarehard_pjh
x.com/PeeJayAitch
wordsarehard-pjh.bsky.social